All rivers across the globe that exit to the ocean contain a zone, which can be 100s of kilometres long, which is transitional between river and tidal environments (termed here the Tidally-Influenced Fluvial Zone, or TIFZ). This zone is one of the most complex environments on the surface of the Earth because it is an area where both river flow and tidal currents are significant, and these competing forces vary daily, seasonally and annually. These regions are important to mankind and form some of the areas of highest population density: they are strategically important in the present day because these zones are at the interface of competing demands for shipping, aquaculture, land reclamation and nature conservation. Thus in order to better maintain, manage and protect these fragile zones, we must understand how and why these regions change and what factors control such change. Additionally, the sediments of ancient TIFZs may contain significant volumes of hydrocarbons which are increasingly the target for many energy companies. For example, the Athabasca oil sands form the largest petroleum deposit on Earth and these bitumen tars are locked up with ancient TIFZ sediments. Understanding the internal nature of such TIFZ sediments is thus of paramount importance when attempting to extract the maximum quantity of oil (or gas) from such ancient hydrocarbon reservoirs - we need to know what controls the geometry and internal characteristics of these reservoirs, and thus better plan efficient and maximal hydrocarbon extraction strategies. Thus all of these interests in both modern and ancient TIFZ environments depend on a detailed knowledge of the fluid flows in these areas, how such flows transport their sediment and critically how the form (or morphology) of these environments changes through time. However, due to the extraordinary challenges of working in such a complex and dynamic environment, few high-resolution, spatially-representative, field datasets exist and remarkably little work has been undertaken on the diagnostic internal sedimentary structure of such TIFZ deposits. Additionally, whilst there has been progress on the mathematical modelling of estuarine flow and sediment transport, these models remain largely untested. There is therefore a pressing need to link the processes and deposits of the TIFZ through an integrated study of their flow, morphology and sediment movement to quantify the key processes and how these are represented within the subsurface sedimentary record. This proposal outlines an integrated field and mathematical modelling study that seeks to achieve a step-change in our understanding of the TIFZ, using the very latest techniques in field survey and mathematical modelling. These techniques will yield unrivalled high-resolution datasets of bathymetry, flow, sediment transport and sedimentary structure that will then be used to construct and validate new numerical models of the TIFZ. This will ultimately allow evaluation of key unknowns with respect to the TIFZ, such as how such environments evolve under changing scenarios of tidal and fluvial contributions associated with sea-level change, and whether it is possible to differentiate between 'fluvial' and 'tidally' influenced deposits. Such results will transform our understanding of how such TIFZ zones behave in modern environments and critically how these changes may be recognized within ancient sedimentary successions.

Numerical morphodynamic modelling systems used in coastal engineering practice consist of coupled models for waves, currents, sediment transport and bed level change. The sediment transport model usually comprises an advection-diffusion model for the wave-averaged suspended sediment and a practical sand transport formula for bed-load or near-bed total-load, in which the sand transport is empirically related to the local flow and sediment conditions. Well-founded practical models are based on a combination of measurements of net sand transport rates and understanding of the key fundamental processes, which are captured in the model in a parameterised way. However, most practical models are based on measured transport rates and processes from laboratory experiments involving regular, non-breaking waves almost exclusively. The fact that waves are in reality irregular and are breaking in many (if not most) cases of practical interest in coastal engineering, raises the question: what key processes associated with wave irregularity and wave breaking need to be included in a practical sand transport model for the model to be applicable to irregular and breaking wave conditions?The proposed research has two main aims: (1) To substantially improve understanding of the near-bed hydrodynamics and sand transport processes occurring under large-scale irregular and breaking wave conditions and (2) to develop a new practical model for predicting sand transport under waves, accounting for wave irregularity and wave breaking in a way that is well founded on experimental data and understanding of the fundamental processes. The transnational project team involves the Universities of Aberdeen, Liverpool and Twente in collaboration with UK and Dutch industry-based Project Partners. Large-scale experiments will be conducted in the Aberdeen Oscillatory Flow Tunnel and the Large Scale Wave Flume at the Catalonia University of Technology in Barcelona. Physical understanding and data from these experiments, combined with insights from two process-based numerical models, will be used to develop a new practical sand transport model that accounts for wave irregularity and wave breaking. Working with the industry Project Partners, the new model will be implemented in morphodynamic modelling systems used by coastal engineering practitioners and tested for practical applications.

Salt marshes exist around the globe on low-lying, low gradient coastal fringes. Amongst providing many services to society (valued at around £1,500 per hectare per year), they are valued for their ability to protect coasts from the erosive force of waves and tides, even during extreme storm surge events. They are, however, nationally and globally in decline. In the UK, the area of salt marsh reduced by 13% between 1945 and 2010 (from 37,300 to 32,500 ha). This loss has not been compensated for through marsh restoration efforts (only 1,320 ha created by 2012). There is high uncertainty as to how these natural coastal protection features (or their artificially restored or re-created equivalents) will respond to the combined effects of future changes in sea level and possible changes in the magnitude and/or frequency of storms. The grass/shrub covered surfaces of salt marshes appear remarkably resistant to storm impact. Given sufficient sediment supply, they can also 'grow' vertically to track rising sea levels. The loss of marsh area over time is therefore more often due to a landward retreat of their most seaward margin or the lateral widening off the tidal channels that drain them. These boundaries are often undercut, with marsh material loosened and removed by tidal currents and waves. Such retreat may reach several metres per year and is of great concern to coastal engineers, planners, and managers, relying on the 'storm buffering' function of these environments. We know little about the force required to 'cut into' salt marsh material (the 'substrate'). The substrate itself is composed of sediment laid down over time by the tides, alongside organic materials resulting from plant growth and invertebrates living in the soil. Its resistance to wave or tidal forces therefore varies within and between marshes. But this resistance has not, so far, been measured in a way that allows coastal engineers to take it into account when predicting the impact of future environmental scenarios (e.g. greater water depths and stronger tidal currents or waves). In this project, we will sample and analyse in detail the substrate of a more sandy (Warton, Morecambe Bay) and a more muddy (Dengie, Essex) marsh, as well as of two restored marshes (two East coast managed realignment sites) and their adjacent natural equivalents. We will determine what these substrates are composed of, how this varies between and within each of these marshes and how it affects the resistance of the marsh substrate to wave and tidal forces. State-of-the-art technology (unmanned aerial vehicles (UAVs) or 'drones') and the latest satellite products will then allow us to produce a map of the physical marsh vulnerability of marsh systems, both in their entirety and within marsh, to these types of forces. Coastal planners, engineers, and managers will benefit through being able to better predict marsh loss into the future and design suitable preventative measures. Anyone watching our three-part documentary short film series will benefit through a better understanding of the scientific methods we use. The global community already using existing satellite products built into web-based tools for assessing the coastal protection function of salt marshes will benefit by being able to access predictions of the resistance to wave/tide erosion that we will build into those tools.

The transport of sediments is a key process in the global geological cycle, a cornerstone of aquatic ecosystems and has a multi-billion pound impact on agricultural, industrial and urban, flood- and erosion-risk hazards. Understanding and being able to predict the stability of gravel river beds is important for multiple reasons: changes in river bed shape will change the channel capacity and thus affect flood risk; the bed stability affects the amount of sediment that can be moved by the flow, which will have impacts on the downstream channel morphology and dynamics; the river bed is a habitat for many species, and thus changes in the river bed will have implications for the river ecosystem; and in order to manage and restore rivers effectively, channels need to be designed with a known level of stability. However, current ability to predict sediment entrainment and thus river bed stability is limited by our understanding of the factors that affect sediment movement. Grain size is typically accounted for, but other factors such as sediment structure (the way in which individual sediment grains are packed together in 3D) and the role of fine sediments in cementing grains together are not. Furthermore, these factors vary spatially across the bed of a river, producing a spatial pattern of areas that are more or less easily entrained, i.e. a template of erodibility. We hypothesis that this spatial pattern of erodibility plays an important role in controlling both the shape of the river bed, and how this shape changes under different flow conditions. We will test this hypothesis by quantifying, for the first time, the development of 3D sediment structure in both a field and a laboratory environment using high energy CT-scanning. These data will allow us to identify causal relationships between the different controls and sediment structure. The application of this technique to large numbers of samples from both field and laboratory settings will provide a significant and unique dataset for understanding the structure and production of 3D bed sediments. Using an existing theoretical framework, we will use the data from both the flume and field data to produce relationships that can be used to predict sediment structure, and consequently the erodibility of the bed, from the controlling factors of sediment input and flow. This relationship will be implemented within a numerical modelling framework in which we will upscale from the field and flume to represent additional range of channel and flow conditions. We will work with end-users to ensure that the new knowledge is transferred effectively into guidance for policy and operational activity within the river management community.

Electricity can be generated through the conversion of the kinetic energy that resides in tidal currents in a similar way to a wind turbine. The ubiquitous nature of tidal energy, and the predictability and reliability of tidal currents, gives tidal-stream energy distinct advantages compared to other renewable energy technologies. Individual tidal energy devices have been installed and proven, with commercial arrays planned throughout the world. Yet, the true global resource and ocean conditions are broadly unknown, affecting optimal global device design. Present methods are unsuitable as the industry matures beyond the fast, shallow, well-mixed, and wave sheltered "demonstration" sites - influencing investor confidence. Transformative understanding of this sustainable natural resource for the coming century is therefore needed to bring a step change towards a sustainable, high-tech and globally exportable, UK renewable energy industry. CHALLENGE 1: How much tidal energy is there in the world and how is it distributed? OBJECTIVE 1: Resolve the true tidal-stream energy resource using unique datasets, consistent modelling framework, and state-of-the-art modelling techniques. Global tidal resource assessments are based on coarse, data constrained, models that are not validated for the few tidal energy sites resolved, as developed for other applications (e.g. global energy budgets); therefore, the global tidal energy resource is only broadly known. Fine-scale bathymetric constrictions (e.g. coral reef passes), biological communities (e.g. flow diverted around kelp beds) and ocean currents, can all accelerate currents between constrictions; meaning many sites initially dismissed as commercially unviable may actually be suitable. A consistent modelling framework (e.g. resolution and physics), and comparison of modelling techniques, will be developed to reduce bias and determine the potential global resource. CHALLENGE 2: How do conditions vary globally and will this change in the coming century? OBJECTIVE 2: Realistic oceanographic conditions at potential tidal-stream energy sites for the coming century will be determined For sustainable device design, realistic oceanographic conditions must be characterised for the lifetime of deployments, and cascaded through high-fidelity device-scale models (e.g. CFD); yet oceanographic conditions, and the impact of climate change, at tidal energy sites is largely unknown. Previously unviable tidal energy regions may become economically viable in the future (as near-resonant tidal systems and their associated currents are sensitive to sea-level rise), and, due to wave-tide interaction processes, oceanographic conditions at tidal energy sites may change. Dynamically coupled wave-tide ocean-scale models will be developed to inform the developing industry (e.g. optimal and resilient design), with new techniques that can simulate the interaction between the resource and devices. CHALLENGE 3: Are current methods of suitable as the industry develops? OBJECTIVE 3: Improved methods of device behaviour in resource and environmental assessment models The industry is evolving beyond fast, shallow, well-mixed and wave sheltered sites, to areas of the world with complex oceanographic conditions (e.g. ocean currents and swell wave dominated climates). New approaches are needed to understand the interactions between devices, resource and environment. Device-scale interaction studies assume well-mixed (i.e. homogenous) channelized flows, with tidal turbine loading from waves assessed assuming waves travel in-line with tidal currents (waves following or opposing current), which is not the case beyond an extremely limited number of tidal straits (e.g. Pentland Firth). Furthermore, device interaction with the flow must also be resolved within resource assessment, beyond simplified momentum sink terms. Device behaviour and interactions will improved at both ocean and device scales.