Successfully scaling up the sustainable and biodegradable materials is essential for the future growth of European industry. To compete with well-established fossil-based chemicals, biobased alternatives need to solve the triple equation of environmental, safe, economic and societal performance. At the same time it must be economically viable on an industrial scale and possess properties akin or superior to existing petroleum-derived analogues. Few biobased polymers have met this challenge. NEXT-STEP will build on the H2020 BioCatPolymers project to demonstrate a sustainable, safe and economically viable production process for a new chemical platform with large scale applications, notably in the bio-based polymer market. NEXT-STEP will use Harwdood sugars produced from sustainably managed forest at the flagship plant of the project partner Fibenol. NEXT-STEP has defined ambitious KPIs for its process regarding its economic performances as well as its Biomass and Energy efficiency. The new chemical platform, the 3-methyl-d-valerolactone (3MdVL) will improve the sustainability and recyclability of polyurethane (PU) products and unlock new engineering plastic applications for Polylactic acid (PLA) co-polymers. Together with its derivate 3-methyl 1,5-pentanediol (3MPD), the 3MdvL can also be used as a biobased polyol component in the traditional PU and other plastic production processes. NEXT-STEP will demonstrate the applicability of its chemical platform by demonstrating its use as a feedstock for the production of (i) Polylactic acid (PLA) co-polymers for shoe outsole, and of (ii) recyclable Non Isocyanate Polyurethane foams for shoe mid-sole and insulation materials applications. Five other applications will be selected for demonstration together with the polymer industry during the project.

Every second, the equivalent of one garbage truck of textiles is landfilled or burned at a huge environmental and societal cost. Textile production is one of the most polluting industries, producing 1.2 billion tons of CO2e per year – more than international flights and maritime shipping. Apparel consumption is projected to rise to 102 million tons by 2030 – a 63% increase equivalent to more than 500 billion T-shirts. As a result, the challenges this project is targeting to solve are becoming even more critical. The textile industry - along with government officials, environmental organizations, and consumers - agree that it’s imperative to make a change towards sustainable production and consumption. There’s a will and an urgent call for change. Existing solutions cannot recycle the growing piles of discarded textiles. There hasn’t been a feasible alternative on the market that would be affordable, environmentally sustainable and provide the required mechanical properties and functionality. Infinited Fiber Company’s cellulose carbamate technology enables textile waste that is currently burned or landfilled to be turned into cost efficient, cotton-like fiber with superior qualities. The patented process can digest cotton rich textile waste (including mixed fibers) and other cellulose based waste feedstocks. The diverse feedstock range is a technological advantage diminishing the need for virgin raw materials. This project will demonstrate that circular, sustainable production and consumption can be a reality. Bringing together the whole circular textile value chain, we will demonstrate an approach where post-consumer waste textiles are recycled with the IFC technology into new fibers and textiles with considerably lower environmental impact while fulfilling brand and consumer performance requirements. In collaboration with leading global brands, the regenerated New Cotton textiles are converted to apparel and launched to consumers to validate their market.

The global consumption of textiles is increasing, with global production of the two most relevant fibres, cotton and polyester, expected to grow by 40% before 2023. There is also no EU-wide plan on how to deal with the existing and anticipated textile waste: currently less than 1% of the material used to produce clothing is recycled into new clothing in a closed-loop process while 87% is landfilled or incinerated. By January 2025 new EU Directive 2018/851 will require all member states to establish a separate household textile waste collection and respect increasing minimum recycling goals, but the pure legislative approach cannot alone solve the growing textile waste problem. Based on estimates from experts, we see that 1% of textile waste entering closed loops leads to 100B euros market loss each year. If a 30% recycling rate is reached (similar to average plastic packaging recycling rates), we will be able to valorize a 30 billion euros/year market. The ambition of T-REX is to contribute to a paradigm shift from household textile waste into desired feedstock. Moreover, we aim to demonstrate that this new commodity and the business models based on it can be completely implemented within the EU. By involving major players across the whole value chain, we aim to demonstrate that a new ecosystem approach, with harmonized methods and quality criteria, can lead to a better understanding of our current textile waste and therefore better upcycling rates into new garments. We also intend to demonstrate that such products can appeal to consumers while at the same time be designed for further recycling. Our goal is to reduce CO2 emissions by 30% across the complete value chain by 2030 by helping to end plastic waste. This project will arm the EU with a commercially viable option to tackle the textile waste and the environmental problems it causes, whilst offering new fields to explore for EU businesses, new know-how for our citizens and, new workforces for the future.