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SINAPUV

(Bio)synthesis and study of physico-chemical/biological properties of sinapoyl malate analogues: non-toxic and biobased anti-UV compounds for cosmetics industry
Funder: French National Research Agency (ANR)Project code: ANR-17-CE07-0046
Funder Contribution: 738,946 EUR
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Description

Anti-UV compounds represent a huge market in the cosmetics industry for their capacity to protect humans from sun damages. Unfortunately, current anti-UVs are being criticized for their toxicity towards the endocrine system of human, animals and fishes, and for their allergenicity; replacing them is thus a public health and environment preservation matter. Moreover, being fossil-based, these molecules are very difficult to degrade in the environment and their cost is extremely fluctuant. There is thus a high industrial/societal demand for cutting-edge technologies enabling the production of renewable and safer alternatives. Nevertheless, to achieve this, one must overcome the following major hurdles: (1) availability of natural raw materials at low cost and large volumes, (2) highly selective and efficient (no/limited wastes, high yields and purity), sustainable, safe and cost-effective production process, (3) anti-UVs must exhibit complimentary biological activities as the marketing approval for compounds exhibiting only anti-UV activity is a complex, lengthy and costly procedure, (4) molecules must not exhibit any toxicity for the consumers, and be environmentally friendly, (5) molecules must (i) possess the required physico-chemical properties to be efficiently incorporated in the cosmetic formulation (e.g., hydrophilic-lipophilic balance (HLB)), and (ii) must be photostable for a period of time compatible with the destination of the cosmetic. SINAPUV builds on the pioneer work of Chaire ABI and its partners from Purdue and Warwick universities that demonstrated that naturally occurring sinapoyl malate exhibits promising high anti-UV activity due to a very peculiar mechanism allowing the absorption of all wavelengths within the UV-B range. Unfortunately, sinapoyl malate extraction from plants is not feasible as it is present in very small quantities. SINAPUV is precisely designed to overcome not only this supply issue but also the hurdles described above by proposing a sustainable integrated approach that aims at producing biobased sinapoyl malate analogs directly from sugars and identifying the ones able to advantageously replace criticized commercial anti-UVs. To achieve this ambitious objective, the project relies on the simultaneous investigation of (1) a synthetic biology strategy for the engineering of microorganisms (bacteria and yeast) capable of producing two chemical intermediates - sinapic acid and sinapoyl malate - from carbohydrates, (2) the development of an integrated microbial production using the engineered strains and agro-industrial byproducts as fermentation medium, and purification processes allowing the production intensification of the intermediates, (3) the development of sustainable (chemo-)enzymatic pathways to sinapoyl malate analogs with tunable HLB from the previous intermediates, (3) the study of their spectral/biological properties both at the molecular and at the formulation level, (4) the determination of the toxicity of the most promising analogs, and (5) a life cycle assessment allowing the most durable analogs and integrated process(es) to be identified. Finally, the analogs exhibiting the highest anti-UV/biological activities and the lowest toxicity will be validated as proof of concept before their industrialization. To rise to this challenge, academic actors and industrials have decided to build a private public partnership gathering all the scientific and industrial expertise required to fully address this multidisciplinary project. Internationally recognized French academic laboratories in synthetic biology (MICALIS), fermentation/downstream processing/green chemistry/LCA (Chaire ABI), and endocrine disruption (HSC) will work hand in hand with a start-up specialized in the construction of industry compliant genetically engineered micro-organisms (Abolis) and a world-leading company specialized in the production of biobased cosmetic ingredients (Givaudan Active Beauty).

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